Bilbao and the Guggenheim

After San Sebastián, I had one more stop: Bilbao, the capital of the Basque Country. I had about two days and didn’t really have much on the agenda outside of the Guggenheim Museum. That said, I spent my time wandering, mostly throughout the Casco Viejo (old city center). I try to spend most of my time in any city in the old city center because the architecture seems to have more character. I like the charming old buildings of years past and the narrow windy streets. I’ve admitted that I don’t quite get modern art, well I don’t really get modern architecture either.

I felt like I didn’t have a whole lot of history in the my previous post and I’m going to have even less in this one, but, oh well, the pictures are pretty.

When I first got there it was supposed to rain both days; however, the first day ended up being not so bad so that was the day that I went exploring. I was staying in the city center so I started there and gradually made my way out across the Nervión river (also known as the Estuary of Bilbao) and into the old town.  This first group of pictures is from the city center (which I suppose would be considered the new town, but of course that’s all relative).

Parts of the area along the river had an oddly Scandinavian feel. It reminded me of Copenhagen…but perhaps it was just the colors. The church in the pictures is Church of San Anton, which was first built in the 15th century. Over the years additions have been made to increase the size. The Belfry Tower, the current bell tower, was constructed in the 18th century and replaced a previous one that had been damaged.

Right next to the church is the Mercado de la Ribera, a two floor market. The first floor offers tapas and drinks to be had right then and there. The top floor has cuts of meat and fish and cheeses and bottles of wine to take home and prepare. The views were great and the stained glass, impressive.

Within the old town, there was a hill with a view that overlooks the city and the mountains in the background. I do love those burnt orange rooftops.

On the way down, I was reminded why I don’t like cats. Seriously, look at those eyes. I swear they all followed me the whole way down.

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Thankful for my life after passing those cats, I wandered around the town. Of course I got thirsty and hungry so I had to throw some coffee and palmeras in there.

Oh and there was also wine…

…that only took one glass

The next day I went to the Guggenheim and spent the rest of the day in the park before catching my train back to Madrid. Overall I was unimpressed with the Guggenheim. The building itself was incredible but as far as the works of art themselves? My favorite was probably the dog outside. But look at him. He’s so well trained! And trimmed!

I did like those lollipop looking things too. They kind of reminded of a more colorful bean like in Chicago. I’m making a funny face in the second to last picture but you can’t really tell. In all seriousness, the artwork in the museum is very modern and that’s not really my taste. I’m sure it’s all very impressive but it just doesn’t tickle my fancy.

From there it was on to the see the swans in the park. If only there was a swan boat to go with them.

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Finally I was on my way to the train station. I said hello to John Adams, who apparently is a big deal here in Bilbao. His testimony of Bilbao and Bizkaia, and their ability to retain their heritage, is recorded in “A Defence of the Constitutions of Government of the United States  of America, 1787”. And I passed a building which had an intricate design on the underside of all of the terraces. How cool is that?

 

My train ride home was five hours so of course I needed sustenance. I overheard a tour guide saying that this bakery was one of the best in the city so I had to give it a try. It was a long ride so I got a palmera and a pastel vasco. The pastel vasco (also called Gâteau Basque) originated in the Basque region of France and is a pastry with a vanilla cream (although sometimes cherry) filling.

image And so vacation came to an end…on that very, very sweet note.

San Sebastián: Sand and Sea

Yesterday I mentioned that I sometimes take too many pictures…well you’re about to bear witness to that. I blame it on San Sebastián which may be the most beautiful place that I’ve ever been. As such this post is mainly pictures, but I don’t think you’ll mind.

San Sebastián is located in the Basque Country, on the coast of the Bay of Biscay and is only about 20 kilometers from the French border. The Basque Country (or Basque Autonomous Community) is an autonomous community that was granted the status of nationality by the Spanish Constitution of 1978 which was signed by current king of Spain, King Juan Carlos I, in December of 1978. The Basque Country (or Euskadi in the Basque language) even have their own parliament and King! They also have their own language, Euskera, which sounds and looks nothing like Spanish.

But anyway back to San Sebastián (or Donostia in Euskera), the most beautiful city in all the land. It has everything: three churches, three beaches, three hills, one island, one river, and a partridge in a pear tree. Okay, so it’s not a partridge and it’s not in a pear tree but they do have a dove so there.

From this point on, I don’t really have any history to share with the group and I’m not going to bother to include food and drinks since I already did that in my last post. And to be honest, I have enough pictures without it. Trust me. With that said, I am going to group the pictures according to location instead of day by day. You’ll notice that I have different outfits on; although the workout outfit is always the same for both days (Penn State got some nice exposure in the Basque Country…well if anyone up there knows what a Nittany Lion is!)

First things first, let’s start in the old town. This is when the churches and the Town Hall are located.

Now let’s climb. During one of my morning runs I decided to tackle Mount Urgull. The views from the top (and actually the whole way up) were amazing. The whole area is a basically a park with lots of trails, so I looped around the hill as I made my way up. That way I was able to overlook the city, the beaches, the open waters (of the Bay of Biscay) and the coastal mountains of Ondarroa in the distance. The hill originally served as a defense point dating back to the founding of the city in the 12th century and there are military barracks and a castle (with a chapel and a 40 foot tall Jesus statue (added in 1950) that overlooks the city). Back in its day it was the site of many military operations including the Siege of San Sebastián in 1813 and the assaults of 1823, 1836, 1876 during the Carlist Wars. Of course now, the city is a touristy resort town and the area was sold to the city council in 1924 so that people like me can get view like these!

After working up a sweat, let’s hit our first beach, Playa de Zurriola (Zurriola Beach) located in the part of town known as Gros. Along the walkway just past the beach is the Dove of Peace statue which was built in the1980s as a symbol of the city’s commitment to peace, freedom, and coexistence. It’s also apparently the area for the young folk and the beaches were full of young surfers and sunbathers. Although there were quite a few families too and I definitely saw a little girl get swept up by one of the waves with her father chasing after her. She cried and then went running into the water. No harm, no foul. I mean who wouldn’t want to go running into this?

Next the big beach, the Playa de la Concha (La Concha Beach). Remember that ad from yesterday’s post? The ad that was etched into the sand at the beach? Well this is that beach! The pictures are from a couple of different days at a couple of different times a day so you’ll see that sometimes the water is all the way out but sometimes the water is in. Imagine watching that and seeing all of your hard work being swept away?

Finally the beach that everyone forgot, Playa de Ondaretta (Ondaretta Beach). Okay that’s probably not true but it’s right next to Playa de la Concha, separated by a little piece of land that juts out into the water, so I’m going to assume. It’s got a prime view of Isla Santa Clara (Santa Clara Island) and Mount Igeldo (which has an amusement park at the top!) though so it’s doing alright for itself.

This was my favorite city of the trip. I’m sure you can see why…