Throw Back…Tuesday? Christmas in Copenhagen

‘Twas the day after my birthday
And all ’round the land,
The snow was falling right there in my hand.
The children (okay, me) nestled all snug in an air mattress
With visions of hot cocoa and marshmallows, no less

Okay, none of that happened. Except for the air mattress; that definitely happened. But if years of Hallmark television has taught me anything about the Christmas season, it was that there had to be snow and mugs full of steaming hot cocoa and crackling fireplaces. Madrid had definitely gotten the memo about Christmas lights. Be on the lookout for that post! But snow, hot cocoa, roaring fires? Not really possible when it’s a balmy 18 degrees (Celsius, that is). Where could I find Christmas cheer and the weather to match? Why Copenhagen, of course! So I packed my things and touched down in the happiest country in all of the land.

From there, it was the perfect night to go for a walk and get the lay of the land. A couple of Christmas trees later and after an Irish pub sighting or two, it was time to call it a day. The next day would be a busy one.

First on the agenda, breakfast and coffee. The most important meals of the day. I had heard of this place that made amazing porridge (believe me, I was just as surprised to hear that porridge could be amazing) and it did not disappoint. Plus the place was rather charming with an adorable window peeking out into the world. The coffee shop was literally a room with a La Marzocco machine staring at you as you walked in. I probably could have watched her make five lattes and still not know how to use that thing, but it was cool to see.

I took the rest of the day to meander around the river and the cute side streets of the city. Somehow the architecture and the doors really spoke to me, oddly enough. So let me take you on a stroll…

The rest of the day was spent at the Kastellet, a 17th Century fortress, complete with its own windmill. If you look at it from above its’s actually shaped like a star! On the way back I visited the little mermaid statue. This status was based on the Hans Christian Andersen’s fairy tale The Little Mermaid and was presented to the city in 1913 by brewer Carl Jacobsen (son of the founder of Carlsberg). Jacobsen loved the character so much that he hired sculptor Edvard Erikson to sculpt the mermaid. Erikson’s wife, Eline, actually posed for the statue!

I really love breakfast so I did plenty of research on where to have breakfast. Møller’s Kaffee & Køkken was by far my favorite while I was there. It was bright and cheery and downright delicious.

And it gave me the fuel I needed to tackle the Nyhavn canal district and Christmas market for the rest of the day.

The next day was the big day. I visited the castle and had afternoon tea at the Parliament building, which I rather enjoyed. I think that should be incorporated into my daily life from now on.

But the highlight and the whole point of the trip: Tivoli Gardens. Tivoli is an amusement park right in the middle of the city. Founded in 1843, the gardens often played host to Hans Christian Andersen and Walt Disney himself. During Christmas, the gardens are decked out in Christmas trees and Christmas lights and glogg abounds! How about you just see for yourself…

Heaven am I right?

Oh and for the record, glogg is mulled wine with cinnamon, raisins, almonds and rum. Aebelskivers are a cross between a pancake and a popover and are dipped in or filled with jam, usually strawberry, blackberry or raspberry. Yum.

The last day was a little out of the ordinary for me: Freetown Christiania. Christiania is a self-proclaimed autonomous neighborhood located within Copenhagen. They even have their own currency and flag. The area was originally created as military barracks; however, they were subsequently taken over by squatters in 1971. The area is known for its non-traditional lifestyle, most notably the ability to freely purchase marijuana; however, it is also chock full of all kinds of artwork. For a while the authorities in Copenhagen pretty much let them be; however, they are now requiring that the residents pay for the land if they want to stay there. They made their first payment in July of 2012.

Pretty neat, huh? That tree painted on the side of the building might be one of my favorite things ever. And it’s just there…in the middle of the city. No wonder they are the world’s happiest country. Alright, Carlsberg, I’ll give you some credit too. Skål!